Spot the Difference

Last week, John hosted our last corporate tasting of 2011. The theme was ‘spot the difference’ between four pairs of wines – all tasted blind. The first pair was pretty straightforward; almost everyone spotted that the richly splendid 2009 Meerlust Chardonnay (£19) was significantly more expensive than a £5.99 Gallo Chardonnay. However, beauty is in the eye or palate of the beholder. So, not everyone adored the toasty Meerlust. A significant minority preferred the lighter, sweeter and more commercial Californian.

Next came a couple of cracking Riojas; Murrieta’s 2005 Reserva and its 2001 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. Again, most spotted the difference in age and price. But most also preferred the younger, £20 Reserva to the more savoury £40 Gran Reserva.

Round three was Faiveley’s 2007 Nuits St Georges, Les Damodes, 1er Cru (£50) against a 2007 Chateau de Pez (£35). Having quoted Harry Waugh’s famous comment on how easy it can be to confuse Burgundy for Bordeaux, many tasters were clearly thrown. Most got it right, but by no means all. Interestingly, most also thought the Bordeaux was the more expensive wine.

The last pair was a fabulous New World/Old World combo. Wine seven was Ben Glaetzer’s extrovert 2009 Bishop Shiraz (£23) from the Barossa. Wine eight was a classical Northern Rhone Syrah in the form of Yves Cuilleron’s 2009 St Joseph, Les Pierres Sèches, costing £22 a bottle. Again, there was much debate over the identity of the grape variety, price and the origins of both wines – proving Michael Broadbent’s famous adage that a sight of the label is worth fifty years experience.

Wine of the night? Talking to people afterwards, it was pretty clear that the exquisitely fruited Faiveley was the firm favourite. But it wasn’t mine. For me, it was the violet, black-fruited St Joseph. At around £22 a bottle, Cuilleron’s Syrah isn’t just great wine, it’s also stunning value.

By John Stimpfig