Keeping it in the Family

Photo credit: sunday driver

Lunch at The Square in Mayfair was undoubtedly the place to be on February 9th. Why? Simply because the Primum Familiae Vini were in London for the very first time in order to show the fourth estate various vintages of their very finest and rarest. More of which, in a moment.

If you’re not familiar with this informal, yet very exclusive group of First Families of wine, it was set up by Miguel Torres and Robert Drouhin two decades ago. The membership criteria are simple: you have to be a family business spanning at least three generations and make top drawer wines, which are truly representative of your region. Naturally, the selection process is invitation only and there’s a maximum of twelve families.

Right now, they comprise the following wine estates and dynasties: Drouhin, Torres, Vega Sicilia, Mouton Rothschild, Pol Roger, Hugel, Antinori, Sassicia, Egon Muller, Perrin and Symington. Of course, some of these families go back more than three generations. The Antinoris can count 26.

First up, we tasted a younger vintage from each family’s portfolio. So if you are of a jealous disposition and despise ‘wine porn’, my advice would be to look away now. If not, read on.

The whites ranged from a Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2000 to Drouhin’s heavenly 2008 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche and Beaucastel’s rich and oatmeal laden 2009 Vieilles Vignes Roussanne.

Then came the reds. From Italy, we tasted Solaia’s flashy and fleshy 2008 and Sassicaia’s leaner 2006. Mouton showed its magnificent 2000. From Spain, Miguel Torres brought his more Mediterranean Mas La Plana 2007 and Vega Sicilia its amazing 2004 Unico which will be commercially released in 2014.

Last but not least, three sweet wines. Egon Muller’s stunning 2010 Scharzhofberger Auslese Goldkapsel, Hugel’s Gewurztraminer SGN ‘S’ 2007 and Graham’s dense but floral 2007 vintage port. Yes; an embarrassment of riches.

Lunch brought even more goodies. With the Lasagne of Dorset Crab, came a 1988 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs which showed just how well great Champagne can age. The same could be said of the minerally, creamy and complex 1990 Marquis de Laguiche.

The loin of monkfish and lentils was paired with a 2001 Solaia, a 96 Sassicaia and the 1990 Beaucastel. Sitting next to me Steven Spurrier preferred the Sassicaia to the Solaia. But I was the other way around. Unfortunately, we both agreed that the 1990 Beaucastel was not at its best.

Then came three legendary wines to match a Venison Wellington and baked celeriac. Though the Torres 82 Mas La Plana was the youngest of the trio, it was also the most mature and to me, was rapidly approaching the end of its days.

There were no such problems with a truly great 1961 Mouton Rothschild, generously provided by Baroness Philippine de Rothschild who, like the wine, was her spirited and animated self. Yet my preferred wine wasn’t the Mouton; it was an incredible 53 Vega Sicilia Unico. At nearly sixty years of age, it is still in terrific shape, with savoury fruit, sous-bois, spice and Christmas cake flavours dominating the palate. Hugh Johnson, also on my table, praised its ‘primitive decadence’.

Dessert was a brilliant bitter chocolate pavé with a seville orange soufflé which provided a lovely bitter note to the sweetness. Again, three wines were poured. First was Hugel’s 1976 SGN Gewurz, which looked very young and though extremely rich in texture was surprisingly demure with a delicious aroma of tea and herbs. I didn’t think it was great with the pud, unlike Egon Muller’s amazing 1990 Scharzhofberger TBA. Ironically, this wonderful elixir seemed older in colour but was much fresher and better – with dates, honey and amazing sweetness and acidity.

Then came another wine legend – the 63 Graham’s. Never having had this before, I was simply spellbound. According to Paul Symmington, it’s been and remains the benchmark of iconic port for the last 75 years. Of course, he would say that wouldn’t he. But he’s absolutely right.

This was an unforgettable lunch of truly great food and wine. More than that, it was also an intriguing opportunity to meet both new younger and more senior members of the PFV families. So alongside Paul Symington was his son Robert. With Miguel Torres was his daughter Mireira (who may be taking on the top job at Torres before too long). From Tenuta san Guido came Priscilla della Rocchetta and from Mouton Rothschild came Philippe de Sereys de Rothschild, together with his mother Baroness Philippine.

What this showed to me was just how strong and valuable this network of wine families has become. Self-evidently, there is genuine respect and friendship between them. There is also a shared approach and philosophy as well as very practical and dynamic exchange of ideas and advice. Without a doubt, the PFV proves that there’s nothing quite like keeping it in the family